Do smart locks get hacked?
Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.
Yes, smart locks can be hacked, but the risk is often overstated compared to physical break-in methods. Most documented attacks require technical skill, close proximity, or exploitation of poor user habits, not magical remote intrusion. A well-chosen smart lock with strong encryption, two-factor authentication, and a Grade 1 deadbolt provides security on par with a traditional lock while adding convenience and an audit trail.
What are the actual ways a smart lock can be hacked?
The most-discussed digital attack vectors are Bluetooth relay attacks, cloud account compromise, firmware vulnerabilities, and weak default codes. A relay attack uses two radios to extend the range of your phone’s Bluetooth signal so an attacker can unlock the door from farther away than intended. Cloud account compromise happens when someone gains access to your login credentials, often through phishing, reused passwords, or poor account recovery options. Firmware bugs can allow remote unlocking if the manufacturer is slow to patch, and some locks ship with factory default codes that users never change. Physical attacks remain equally relevant. Many smart locks still have a traditional key override or a mechanical clutch that can be picked or drilled. Others have exposed screws that let an attacker remove the lock entirely. These methods are far more common in real-world burglaries than sophisticated digital hacks. A good smart lock addresses both layers: secure electronics and a strong physical deadbolt.
How common are smart lock hacks in real-world burglaries?
The vast majority of home break-ins, some estimates put it above 90%. involve forced entry: kicking in a door, prying a frame, or breaking a window. Police reports rarely mention smart lock hacking as a method. Most documented smart lock attacks come from security researchers demonstrating vulnerabilities on specific models, not from criminal activity. That doesn’t mean the risk is zero, but it’s far smaller than the risk of a weak door frame or a cheap lock cylinder. The more realistic threat is low-effort digital theft: an attacker guessing a weak PIN code, intercepting an unencrypted unlock command from a poorly designed lock, or exploiting a default Wi-Fi password. These are preventable with smart choices. For most people, the convenience and remote-lockout benefits of a smart lock outweigh the small added attack surface.
Why does physical security still matter with a smart lock?
Every smart lock sits on top of a mechanical deadbolt. That physical lock, the bolt, the strike plate, the door frame, is what stops someone from simply pushing or kicking the door open. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) rates deadbolts from Grade 3 (basic) to Grade 1 (commercial-grade). A Grade 1 deadbolt has thicker metal, a stronger bolt, and more resistance to forced entry. Some smart locks use an integrated deadbolt that is Grade 1 or Grade 2 rated; others use a smart module attached to an existing lock, which may not be as robust. When picking a smart lock, look for one that uses a Grade 1 deadbolt or at least Grade 2. That ensures the physical barrier is as strong as the digital one. A hacker might bypass the electronics, but if the bolt is solid and the strike plate is reinforced with long screws, they’ll still have a very hard time getting in. Physical security is the foundation; digital security sits on top.
How does encryption protect your smart lock from attack?
Encryption scrambles the data sent between your phone, the lock, and the cloud so that eavesdroppers can’t read or replay unlock commands. Not all encryption is equal. Some locks use basic encryption that leaves a window for replay attacks, where a hacker records a valid unlock signal and plays it back later. End-to-end encryption (E2EE) means the lock and your phone have a shared secret that no third party, not even the cloud server, can see. That prevents a server breach from revealing your lock’s secrets. Protocols matter, too. Smart locks using Z-Wave or Zigbee with S2 security (the highest level) have strong built-in encryption and local communication, reducing cloud dependence. Bluetooth locks vary widely; look for those that use secure pairing with AES-128 encryption and a rotating session key. Wi-Fi locks are more convenient but expose a larger attack surface. For maximum security, choose a lock that supports a local hub (like Z-Wave or Thread) and offers E2EE for remote access. Always check the manufacturer’s security documentation, not just marketing claims.
What role does the app and account security play?
Your lock is only as secure as the account you use to control it. If someone steals your email password, knows your security questions, or intercepts a password reset link, they can unlock your door without touching it. That’s why two-factor authentication (2FA) is critical. Look for a lock app that requires a one-time code from an authenticator app or SMS for login, not just a password. Session management also matters: the app should log you out automatically after inactivity and support revoking access for lost phones. Account recovery is a weak point. Some services let you reset a password with only an email address and a birth date, easily guessed or found online. Choose a brand that uses proper recovery flows, like sending a time-limited code to a verified second device. Also consider whether the lock offers a local-only mode (no cloud account required) for maximum privacy. If you go with a cloud-connected lock, use a unique, strong password and enable 2FA immediately.
How to choose a smart lock that minimizes digital exposure?
Start with the physical foundation: a Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolt from a reputable brand like Schlage, Yale, or Kwikset. Then evaluate digital security features. Look for locks that support end-to-end encryption (some brand-name models now advertise this) and have a history of prompt firmware updates. Avoid locks that rely entirely on Wi-Fi with no local fallback, as they can be more vulnerable to cloud-side attacks. A lock that works with a local smart home hub (e.g., Apple HomeKey with Thread, Z-Wave with a secure hub) can reduce reliance on internet connectivity and server security. Check the manufacturer’s track record: have they issued security patches in the past? Do they have a bug bounty program? Read reviews from security-conscious users, not just convenience-focused ones. Also consider the lock’s access methods, avoid models that force you to use a weak PIN-only system; prefer ones with app-based authentication and optional physical key override. A key override is fine as long as the cylinder is pick-resistant (like those with security pins). Finally, turn off any feature you don’t need: auto-unlock, voice assistant integration, or guest codes that can be shared. Fewer attack surfaces means less to worry about.
Frequently asked questions
Can someone unlock my smart lock from the internet?
Only if your lock is connected to Wi-Fi and your account credentials are compromised, or if the lock has a serious firmware vulnerability. Most smart locks use encryption and require the correct digital keys. Using two-factor authentication and a strong, unique password makes internet-based unlocking extremely unlikely.
Are smart locks safer than regular locks?
In terms of physical break-in, a traditional deadbolt can be just as strong as a smart lock’s bolt. The smart lock adds digital attack surfaces but also adds convenience and an audit trail. For most homeowners, the risk profile is comparable, with proper digital hygiene and a Grade 1 deadbolt. Smart locks are not inherently less safe, they just require a different type of care.
What is a relay attack and should I worry?
A relay attack extends your phone’s Bluetooth signal so an attacker near your door can trick the lock into thinking your phone is closer than it is. This requires specialized hardware and close proximity to both you and the lock. It’s a theoretical risk demonstrated by researchers, not a common crime. You can mitigate it by using locks that require a touch on the lock or a PIN, not just proximity.
Do I need a smart lock that works offline?
Not necessarily, but it does reduce the attack surface. Offline locks (like those using Bluetooth only, without cloud connectivity) cannot be hacked remotely because they never connect to the internet. However, you lose remote locking/unlocking and guest-code sharing. If you value maximum privacy and don’t need remote access, an offline Bluetooth lock with good encryption is a solid choice.
How often should I update my smart lock’s firmware?
Update as soon as a new version is available, especially if the release notes mention security fixes. Most reputable manufacturers push updates automatically through the app, but some require manual initiation. Set a reminder to check every few months. Delaying updates leaves known vulnerabilities unpatched.
Can a smart lock be hacked if I never use the app?
Yes, if the lock has a physical key override, that keyway can be picked or drilled. Also, if the lock has a touchpad or a mechanical backup, those can be bypassed. If you never connect the lock to the app, then the digital attack surface, like cloud hacking, doesn’t apply, but you’re still vulnerable to classic physical attacks. It’s a trade-off: less digital risk, same physical risk.