How to choose a soundbar
Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.
The best soundbar for you depends on your TV’s HDMI capabilities, your room size, and what you actually watch. For most people, a 3.1 or 5.1 system with HDMI eARC and a wireless subwoofer offers the clearest upgrade in dialogue clarity and bass without breaking the bank. Dolby Atmos is a nice bonus but often unnecessary in smaller rooms, and you can skip ultra-wide channel counts if you rarely watch action films or play games.
What do channel counts like 2.1, 3.1, and 5.1 actually mean for your setup?
The first number is the main speaker channels: a 2.0 soundbar has left and right, a 3.1 adds a dedicated center channel for dialogue, a 5.1 adds two rear or side speakers for surround effects, and a 7.1.4 adds extra side channels and upward-firing height speakers. The “.1” refers to a separate subwoofer channel, and the last number (like.4) indicates ceiling or upward speakers. In practice, 3.1 is the sweet spot for most living rooms. The center channel dramatically improves speech clarity, even at low volume, without needing rear speakers that can clutter a room. A 5.1 system becomes worthwhile if you have a dedicated media room or love immersive action movies, but the rear speakers often require careful placement and may not shine in open-plan layouts. Avoid chasing high channel counts just for the spec sheet; a well-tuned 3.1 bar from a reputable brand often sounds better than a cheap 7.1 system.
HDMI eARC vs ARC vs optical — which connection should you use?
HDMI eARC is the clear default for modern TVs. It supports lossless audio formats like Dolby TrueHD and DTS:X, which you get from 4K Blu-rays and some streaming services. It also lets you control volume and power via your TV remote, simplifying your setup. HDMI ARC (without the “e”) still carries compressed Dolby Digital Plus (used by Netflix and Disney+) but cannot handle lossless audio; it’s a good fallback for older 4K TVs. Optical is the legacy option. It supports only compressed 5.1 audio (Dolby Digital, DTS) and cannot carry Atmos metadata or high-resolution audio. You’ll lose dialogue-enhancing features like Dolby Atmos height virtualization. Use optical only if your TV lacks any HDMI ARC port or if you connect the soundbar to a projector without ARC. For any TV made after 2019, eARC is the best choice—check your TV’s manual to confirm support.
Is Dolby Atmos really worth it on a soundbar?
Dolby Atmos on a soundbar works in two ways: upward-firing drivers that bounce sound off your ceiling, or virtual processing that simulates height from a standard bar. Upward-firing Atmos can create a convincing sense of overhead effects (rain, helicopters) but only if your ceiling is flat, not too high, and non-absorbent. Many owners report that the effect is subtle unless the bar is calibrated to the room. Virtual Atmos, meanwhile, widens the soundstage but rarely reproduces true height. For most people, Atmos is a luxury, not a necessity. If you watch a lot of streaming content, most of it uses compressed Dolby Digital Plus with Atmos metadata, which is a minor improvement over standard 5.1. The real benefit appears with Blu-rays or high-bitrate streaming. Before paying a premium for Atmos, consider whether your room and content justify it. A 3.1 bar without Atmos but with a great center channel can be more satisfying than a mediocre Atmos bar.
Subwoofer decisions: built-in, wired, or wireless?
Built-in subwoofers are found in compact soundbars. They save space and cable clutter but deliver modest bass that’s fine for TV shows and news in small rooms. They cannot reproduce deep, chest-thumping lows for action films or music without distortion. Wireless subwoofers are the most common and practical choice for most homes. They connect to the soundbar via a dedicated radio link, not Wi-Fi, so pairing is simple and latency is low. You can place the sub anywhere within signal range (usually 20–30 feet), which lets you hide it behind furniture or near a power outlet. Wired subwoofers are rare on soundbars but appear on a few high-end models; they offer slightly lower latency and absolute reliability but require running a cable across the room. For a typical living room, a wireless subwoofer is the best trade-off. Pay attention to the subwoofer’s driver size—larger (8 to 10 inches) usually means deeper bass, but cabinet design matters too. If bass impact is critical for what you watch (action, sci-fi, gaming), a separate wireless sub is the way to go.
Wi-Fi vs Bluetooth: which matters for music streaming?
Bluetooth is convenient for casual listening from your phone, but it compresses audio and limits the sound quality. It also requires your phone to be nearby, and you can’t easily hand off playback to other speakers. Wi-Fi streaming (via AirPlay, Chromecast, or Spotify Connect) is lossless or high-bitrate, and it lets you control music from any device on your network without draining your phone’s battery. Multi-room systems like Sonos or DTS Play-Fi rely on Wi-Fi to synchronize soundbars with other speakers. If you plan to stream music regularly or want to expand to whole-home audio, choose a soundbar with built-in Wi-Fi and support for your preferred ecosystem (Apple users should look for AirPlay 2, Android users for Chromecast built-in). If you only listen to podcasts and casual playlists via your phone, Bluetooth is sufficient. Many soundbars include both, but Wi-Fi support often adds to the cost and software complexity, so it’s worth prioritizing only if you’ll use it.
Do TV brand compatibility and proprietary features matter?
Most soundbars work with any TV via standard connections (HDMI, optical, aux). However, some brands offer proprietary features that enhance convenience. For example, Samsung’s Q-Symphony lets its soundbars work with compatible Samsung TVs to use the TV’s built-in speakers simultaneously for a wider soundstage. LG’s Soundbar Mode Sync integrates volume control and on-screen menus with LG TVs. Sony’s Acoustic Center Sync uses the TV as a center channel for improved dialogue. These features are nice but not deal-breakers. They rarely improve audio quality enough to justify buying a soundbar from the same brand as your TV unless you already own that TV. The most important compatibility factor is whether your TV has an HDMI eARC port. If you have a non-Samsung TV and buy a Samsung soundbar, you won’t lose anything essential. Focus on sound quality, channel count, and subwoofer type first; brand ecosystem is a minor tiebreaker at best.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a soundbar with an older TV that only has optical output?
Yes, but you’ll be limited to compressed 5.1 audio (Dolby Digital or DTS). You won’t get Dolby Atmos or lossless formats. Make sure the soundbar has an optical input, and you can still enjoy better sound than TV speakers.
Do I need a separate subwoofer, or is a built-in one enough?
For small rooms (under 150 square feet) and if you watch mostly dialogue-driven content, a built-in sub is fine. For larger spaces or action movies, get a soundbar with a wireless subwoofer for deeper bass and less strain on the bar.
How do I know if my TV supports eARC?
Check the HDMI ports on your TV: eARC is usually labeled on the port itself. Alternatively, look up your TV model’s specifications online. Most TVs from 2019 onward support eARC, but budget models may only have ARC.
Is a soundbar better than a home theater system with separate speakers?
For convenience, space, and wire-free setups, a soundbar is better. For absolute sound quality, imaging, and room-filling surround effects, a separate receiver and speaker system wins. Soundbars are ideal for most living rooms; a full home theater is better for dedicated media rooms.
What’s the difference between a soundbar and a soundbase?
A soundbar is a long, slim speaker designed to sit in front of or be wall-mounted under a TV. A soundbase is a wider, shorter box that the TV sits on top of. Soundbases often have built-in subwoofers and are better for deep bass but may not fit larger TVs on feet. Soundbars are more versatile and common.